Kit from 1989, main paint is Tamiya TS43 British Racing Green, brighter than I expected but quite pleased with finish after light going over of some dust flecks with Micromesh 6000\8000\12000 cloths and a bit of Autoglym car polish
Interior is TS46 Light Sand with details in Lifecolor and Citadel acrylics
Number plates were created in Photoshop then printed on photo paper.
Window surrounds are Sharpie permanent marker and chrome details by Molotow pen
Finished this build of Group C racer, the only Jaguar XJR-8 that finished Le Mans 1987 (5th place). Drivers were Eddie Cheever, Raul Boesel and Jan Lammers.
Kit is a recent re-release of 1980s ‘curbside’ kit which still includes correct Silk Cut markings on a separate decal sheet. Built ‘from the box’, Tamiya TS rattle cans were used for main white body paint and black chassis.
Decals were brittle\cracking when dry so lot of touch up was needed (Vallejo ‘Hexed Lichen’ for purple, Citadel yellow for stripes) before Tamiya TS gloss varnish sealed everything. Despite lots of softner\setter there are bits that still stand proud so looks a bit scruffy on close inspection.
Black surrounds to glasswork were hand painted inside using the moulded detail as a guide, inside edges of headlamp covers were brushed with Tamiya acrylic dark green. Aerial on roof is a piece of stretched sprue.
Base is from Coastal Kits
If I did another one I would consider masking\spraying the purple and trim decals to match (or go for aftermarket set).
Hope you enjoy, will do an XJR-9 (1988 Le Mans winner) as well soon
Work in progress pictures here: https://twitter.com/search?q=cjhm%20hasegawa%20jaguar
Finished this build of early 70s kit from Revell, recently reissued as a ‘Ed Roth’ boxing. Inspiration was recent DVD viewing of American Graffiti.
Main paint is custom mix of Tamiya Acrylic White with a bit of blue and green added. Aiming for a 50s pastel look, this was airbrushed on using 0.4 tip in Harder and Steenbeck Ultra. Turquoise is a Games Workshop colour. When body was dry is was smoothed with Micro Mesh 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 cloths.
It looks a bit scrappy, opening doors and hood\trunk are good features but alignment leaves a lot to be desired. Chrome trim is by Molotow pen, great addition to the modellers armoury but I made a bit of hash of trying to pick out some of trim so it looks a bit rough
Work in Progress pictures here: https://twitter.com/search?q=%23Revell%20%2357Chevy%20cjhm&src=typd
Inspired by seeing the CUT8 racing E-Type on a visit to Goodwood for a Revival Test Day I built this ‘fast road’ version model from the old Heller kit.
Originally released in 1978, the kit is basic but it seems to be the best option among the limited range of kit options available.
The main challenge with this kit is the horizontal seam in the body (I presume caused by the moulding limitations of the time) created where Heller have the lower body panels moulded with the chassis\underbody.
The design of the kit prevents the joining of upper and lower body until the interior and side windows are installed by which point filling and sanding is likely to damage the completed interior and allow water to get trapped inside whilst wet sanding.
After researching similar builds I found on the internet and various dry fittings with parts taped together I decided to separate the lower body (sills and rear valance) from the chassis parts using a razor saw and attach them to the main body, reinforcing the join with strips of plastic card. I then glued the boot floor to the remaining chassis parts, the end result allowing the chassis to slide back into the main body after painting.
My assembly method would leave a small slot where the body sides curl under and meet the chassis but this would be out of sight when finished so was an acceptable compromise. What I didn’t realise at the time was that once the side windows were installed (they are moulded with the interior door card detail) during finally assembly, they would prevent the two sections sliding together as planned ! (see below)
I decided to modify the left hand drive dashboard to RHD, using plastic card to make the glovebox look like the instrument panel and removing detail on the moulded left hand panel to represent a new glovebox.
Remainder of assembly was as mainly as per the instructions; I added ignition leads from fine (approx. 0.3mm) wire inserted into holes drilled in cylinder head and coil, running them back to a distributor made from a small piece of plastic tube (which replaced the lumpy kit distributor).
Body was painted with Halfords car paint; Plastic Primer then Rover British Racing Green with clear lacquer to finish. After 3 weeks drying I user 6000/8000/12000 micro mesh to smooth the lacquer before applying Autoglym polish to give a final shine.
Chassis was sprayed with can of Humbrol 85 satin black acrylic. Engine, interior and other details were brush painted using Vallejo, Citadel and Lifecolor acrylics.
The wheels and other chrome parts had their heavy plating removed using bleach before painting. The wheels were then finished in Humbrol 56 acrylic, again from a spray can. Etched Knock-offs from detail master were added to the wheels as the kit parts were very crude.
Chrome was added to window frames and other details using a 1mm Molotow pen; these pens really are chrome, not silver, and are far easier to use than foil.
The side windows were added to the completed body and then I went to slide the chassis (with attached seats and dashboard) up into the body. The chassis snagged on the side windows so I couldn’t get the boot floor and chassis rear in position so I had to carefully separate the boot floor using a razor saw and insert it first before squeezing the reminder of the chassis into position.
Once together I re-glued and re-painted the cut parts through the open rear window opening as best as I could.
Steering wheel was also added at this point, tricky manoeuvre via front and rear window openings using tweezers.
The front and rear windows fit from the outside of the body, I added these last only to find they didn’t fit well, in part due to paint build up leaving the rear screen proud of the bodywork.
Lights were added to the completed body, Tamiya clear red\orange being used for the lenses. Numberplates were printed from my PC onto photo-paper. Bumbers were intentionally left off for a ‘road racer’ look
Lots of work in progress pictures here: https://twitter.com/search?q=cjhm%20heller%20jaguar&src=typd
Kit is probably a 1980s issue as there was no motor but all the gears and battery connectors were still sealed in their packets
Car is Porsche 936/77-001, Le Mans winner from 1977 as driven by Jacky Ickx, Hurley Haywood and Jürgen Barth
Built from the box, body was sprayed with Tamiya TS Gloss White, details brushed with Citadel, Lifecolor, Vallejo and Humbrol acrylics
Had a bit of trouble with decals cracking (should have clear coated first perhaps) and a gloss coat of Humbrol 35 Acrylic rattle can went cloudy but was saved by polishing with Novus plastic polish
Work in Progress pictures of my trials and tribulations here: https://twitter.com/search?q=cjhm%20%23Tamiya%20936&src=typd
Calling this one done, it’s the Revell 1/24 Porsche 986 Boxster kit, few parts but reasonably well detailed; lack of brake calipers, all red rear light clusters and 2 big screws underneath are only downsides really
Wheels were Humbrol Acrylic Spray 11 Silver, interior is Humbrol Acrylic Spray in Ocean Grey, chassis Tamiya TS Satin Black – all with Lifecolor\citadel brushed on for details.
Body is Halfords VW Blue over their grey plastic primer and finished with same brand clear Lacquer
Windscreen surround and other trim is Staedtler permanent marker pen, indicators clear Tamiya acrylic.
Work in progress here: https://twitter.com/search?q=cjhm%20revell%20boxster&src=typd
April 2017, calling this one done
It’s the 1/24 Revell 1966 Revell GT350 Shelby Mustang which has appeared in various guises within both Revell and Monogram boxes over the years as regular and Shelby versions
I drilled out the distributor and cylinder heads to add thin wire ignition leads with a small piece of plastic rod as a coil
Engine block is Tamiya X14 Blue, Chassis and Interior X18 Black, Body is X13 Metallic Blue – All applied by Airbrush
Painted body was clear coated with Tamiya X22 which was polished with a Novus set once dry
Chrome is Bare Metal Foil for window frames and door handles; badges, scripts and other details all hand painted
Work in progress pictures here: https://twitter.com/search?q=Revell%20Mustang%20CJHM
I picked this up for a good price on eBay last summer; it’s the 1980s 1/24 Esci kit boxed by Ertl in 1990. The kit is relatively basic but goes together well just needing a bit of filler in some small sink marks.
It’s the Porsche 935/77 as raced by Jacky Ickx in 1977 featuring the iconic Martini livery.
Main paint is all by airbrush – Tamiya X18 for the chassis\interior, X2 over XF2 undercoat for the bodywork and Vallejo Model Air florescent red on the front splitter. When dry the body was smoothed ready for decals using Novus polishing kit (as used by pinball machine restorers!) following the great advice to be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956647-matts-tips-for-painting-cars/
Decals went on OK considering the age of the kit, bit fragile in places. The decal instructions didn’t always match the numbers on the sheet or what is on the box art. Pictures of the real car on the internet in period show different sponsor decal positions from race to race so final layout is my best effort at a representative scheme; this left me missing the ‘Martini Porsche’ wording across the front; I printed one on some decal paper I had lying around. With the benefit of hindsight I could have used the rear wing wording on the front as I found a picture of the car with only the Martini logo on the wing at a particular race.
After decalling, 2 coats of Tamyia gloss varnish X22 were airbrushed on to seal everything down. Window surrounds are done with permanent marker.
The Porsche 917 in some of the pictures is the Fujimi kit I finished last year; more of that build here: http://blog.cjhm.net/124-fujimi-porsche-917k-1971-1000km-monza
Built these 20+ years ago. Lago Talbot is mix of a part built Merit original and Smer reissue; Alfa is all Smer. Both have wheel rims drilled out and fuse wire spokes added.
Recently rediscovered and repaired, not my best efforts but hope you enjoy.